Friday, June 7, 2019

Pattern Review - Wander Skirt by Gentle Clothing

I realize that it's been ages since I wrote my last review of a pattern, but this seemed like a good one to write about.  So, here are my thoughts on the Wander Skirt by Karen LePage of Gentle Clothing (Instagram: @gentleclothing).

In the interest of full disclosure, Karen and I are friends.  We were introduced by a mutual friend after Karen moved to the Pacific Northwest.  I received a copy of the pattern from Karen after I had expressed interest in making it.  She did not ask me to write a review or anything of that sort in exchange for the pattern.  This review is based on my honest experience with making the pattern.

Now that I got that out of the way, are you ready to hear what I think about it?  GOOD!  Let's go!

I wouldn't really consider myself a garment sewist.  I've made a few pieces, but mostly I find something that I like and then I make it a few times as I've done with my favorite t-shirt pattern, favorite cardigan, and PJ shorts/pants.  I can literally count the number of skirts that I own on one hand (and not even get through all of my fingers), so this pattern was pretty out of the box for me.  I've had issues with wrap-style items being a little scary when a slight breeze happens, but Karen showed me how this skirt was different in terms of overlap.  She was right (and I even experienced some pretty substantial wind while wearing the skirt, so I can personally attest to it).

The first thing that caught my eye about the pattern (when I saw pictures on Instagram) was that it can be made with a variety of different fabrics.  Some of the fabrics mentioned as suitable for making the skirt include: cotton lawn, quilting cotton, linen, and denim.  Perfect!  Right after I saw how cute it was, I read that it was reversible!  YES!  That's even better!  I decided to use fabrics from the Observatory collection by Alison Glass for Andover Fabrics for the main and contrast.  The fabrics in the collection are created by hand using the batik process, but they don't feel like most batiks (which is probably why I like them).  Just to mix it up a little, I decided to make the waistband/tie out of my favorite print from Alison's Adorn collection.  The one that I selected is a cotton lawn.

Fabrics are from Observatory by Alison Glass for Andover Fabrics
With fabrics in mind, I moved into selecting a size - not my favorite part of any pattern.  There are 11 sizes included, so it is designed to work for lots of bodies.  The pattern also gives some tips on selecting sizes, fitting tips, and options for variations including length modifications and widening the waistband (p.s. I did not make any modifications on mine).  Perfect.  I picked one and off I went to trace my pattern onto Swedish tracing paper while my fabrics were in the washing machine.  Don't forget this step (if your fabrics can be laundered) because fabric will often shrink, so it would be a real bummer to make a finished garment then wash it and have it not fit in the end.

I found the instructions on laying out the pattern pieces to be easy to follow.  I can never seem to remember which color is which (right or wrong side) on garment pattern illustrations, but thankfully, the pieces were labeled in the illustrations.  YAY!  After I got all of the pieces cut, I interfaced the waistband/tie (because it recommends to do so when you're using a lightweight fabric) using Palmer Pletsch PerfectFuse Interfacing in Sheer weight to give the lawn a bit of body and to try to minimize the wrinkling.

Construction of the skirt was straight forward (and it's made using a straight stitch on a sewing machine - no serger required).  The only tricky part was trying to figure out exactly where I needed to create the pass-through hole for the tie, but once I wrapped the skirt around my body, I understood where it needed to go.  To be honest, the pattern illustration was spot on.  I just got a little paranoid that I would put it in the wrong spot.

I love the topstitching along the bottom edge in 40wt Aurifil colors 2692 and 1200
With that crisis averted, I finished my skirt.  I washed it and packed it before I left for a trip to Kansas City where I wore it, and then I wore it a few days later with the reverse side out!  Yes!  I really did.  Here are a couple of less than ideal pictures that I snapped in my hotel room (the cardigan is Universal Standard for J.Crew if you're wondering):

I wore it first with the purple (contrast) side out to a trunk show 
Then I wore it with the black (main) side out  a few days later
A better pic of my completed skirt where you can see the colors.  40wt Aurifil in color 2630 was used for the waistband/tie
This pattern is very well written.  Karen's years of sewing and pattern writing expertise are evident.  She's made this skirt a ton of times.  She's worn this a ton of times.  She's taught this pattern as a class a ton of times.  I do believe it really is suitable for a person for a confident beginner sewist or even a quilter (who has sewn for years but never made garments)!  LOL.

So, I've made the skirt.  I've worn it.  It's a skirt, and I liked it (yeah, for real).  I think I'll even make another one...or two.  Would I change anything on the next one?  I think the only thing I may change the next time I make it is to make the waistband/tie a little bit longer so I can have a longer bow, but that's it.  It's not an issue with the skirt.  It's just personal preference.  It was super windy on the second day that I wore the skirt, but it did not let me down.  Everything under the skirt stayed under the skirt (and aren't we all thankful for that?)!  I even sat cross-legged on the floor while wearing my Wander Skirt without any exposure/incidents/issues (take your pick of word).  YES!  YES!  YES!  I'm a happy camper.  :)

There's only one thing that I wish it had...pockets.  :). Maybe that's a suggestion for a future pattern!

Tuesday, May 21, 2019

Anna Maria Horner + Aurifil Showcase!


Hey!  I'm super excited to finally be able to share my project for the Anna Maria Horner (Instagram: @annamariahorner) + Aurifil (Instagram: @aurifilthread) Showcase featuring Anna Maria's beautiful Passionflower collection for FreeSpirit Fabrics (Instagram: @freespiritfabrics)!

Let's get the basics out of the way, and then I'll share more details (plus a few tips)!


Fabrics from Passionflower:  Imposter in Medieval, Migration in Dahlia, & Passiflora in Silver

Thread:  Aurifil 40wt in 1248 (Dark Grey Blue), 2479 (Medium Orchid), & 4241 (Very Dark Grey)

Pattern:  Easy Does It from ByAnnie (Instagram: @patternsbyannie)

For this project, like many of my others, I wanted to match the thread color to the fabric so I added in a few extra colors. :)  My favorite thread for quilting, making bags, and binding is Aurifil's 40 weight Mako Cotton (I do my quilt piecing in 50wt Aurifil).  The 40wt thread is a little more beefy, so it adds definition to the stitches without dominating. When selecting thread, don't forget to choose a needle that is appropriate for the thread and fabric that you are using because it really does make a big difference.  Here's a link to a Aurifil's Product Guide which lists recommendations for needle types and sizes based on the thread weights.

If you've been with me for at least a few posts (or if you follow me on Instagram), you have probably noticed that I have a bit of an affinity for grid quilting, especially when the quilting is set on point.  There is such a beautiful simplicity to it, and it is a great way to add texture without distracting from either the fabric or the pattern.  With the size of the bag and the scale of the prints, I decided to go with a 3/4" grid (I usually use grids between 3/4" and 1 1/4" depending on the project).  I quilted the fabric to the ByAnnie's Soft and Stable® and cut the pieces to size as instructed.

When I am quilting a grid, I like to actually mark the lines rather than using the guide that I can attach to the foot on my machine.  Clover's #5032 Air Erasable Marker (Instagram: @cloverusa) is my favorite tool for most fabrics.  Please note that you should ALWAYS test your fabric + marking tool combo to make sure that you get the intended result.  I love this specific marker because the ink will disappear on its own,  or they can be removed immediately with water using either the eraser on the pen or a spritz of water from a spray bottle.  Factors like temperature and humidity may impact how long the marks will stay, so I like to mark a couple of lines at a time then quilt them right away.  Whenever possible, I also prefer to mark on the lining side of the fabric just to be extra safe.

I find that I have the best results with my quilting if I use a walking foot and a longer stitch length.  The walking foot helps the fabric to move as one unit because pressure is applied from the top and the bottom at the same time.  When using different colors of thread in the top and bobbin, I am extra particular about my thread tension.  If I am sewing with the lining side up, I will often increase the TOP tension VERY slightly (basically the smallest amount that I am able to adjust) so the stitches on the main/exterior fabric look perfect.  The tiny adjustment still allows for the threads to meet in the middle of my "quilt sandwich", but it gives it a nudge toward the lining.  I will fully admit that the change isn't something that most people would notice because it looks excellent without any adjustment, but it's still something that I do.  Maybe try it and see if you think it makes a difference.

Quilting on marked lines with the lining fabric face up in 40wt Aurifil 2479
After I've marked a few diagonal lines (I line up the 45 degree line on my ruler with the bottom edge of the fabric to make it easy for the first line then I use that as a guide for the other marked lines) for my stitching, I start sewing by working from the center toward the edge.  Once that side is complete, I work out to the other edge starting from the center again.  After all of those parallel lines have been quilted, I place my ruler across the piece perpendicular to the sewn line and mark a couple of lines and repeat the process until it's all finished.  If you look closely at the lower left section of the picture, you will notice that the grid is not yet complete.

Main/exterior fabric quilted with Aurifil 40wt color 1248
Remember, this is the side that was underneath when I was quilting (I used the Dark Grey Blue as my bobbin thread).  It looks pretty great, don't you think?

The Easy Does It is a free pattern from ByAnnie (featured in Issue 6 / 2019-2020 catalog) was designed to use 3 fat quarters, so it was great for this challenge.  I love the size of the bag, and I think it would be great for a variety of skill levels especially with their free Add-On Video (the link should be active soon)!

Just to wrap up, I've got a couple of extra pictures for you!

The finished bag interior.  I love the bound seams!

What could be cooler than getting a picture of my finished project with the amazing Anna Maria Horner at Quilt Market?!?!

So now that I've spilled some of my secrets, I hope you may find some of the information helpful!  Much thanks to the wonderful folks at Aurifil and FreeSpirit for providing the fabric and a spool of thread to those of us that participated in the Anna Maria Horner Showcase.  I am so happy to have the continued opportunity to work with Aurifil as I am a returning Aurifil Artisan for 2019-2020!

p.s. (and a reminder to my future self) - lint rollers are only useful if you don't forget to use them to get all of the little bits of charm pack floof out of the interior of your bag before you take a picture!  Oops!

p.p.s. I made the skirt that I'm wearing in the picture with Anna Maria!  It's the Wander Skirt pattern by Gentle Clothing (Instagram: @gentleclothing).

Friday, April 19, 2019

Adventures in foundation paper piecing

Like many other techniques, foundation paper piecing (FPP) has its share of people that love it and hate it.  I fall into the group in between.  I do not love it, but I do not completely hate it.  For me, it's simply a means to an end - I WILL do it if I must, but I will probably complain about it because I honestly do not enjoy the process.

I've put together a list of a few things that I've learned along the way which help to make the whole thing more enjoyable/less painful for me.  As always, your mileage may vary.

As a side note for anybody that might be new to my blog, you will not find affiliate links in my posts.  If I should happen to use them in the future, they will be noted as such.  Many of these products may be available at your favorite quilt shop, sewing store, or Amazon.com.  I'm providing links from the pages of the manufacturers because they are likely to be the most reliable in terms of whether or product is still being marketed/sold/available.  :)

My setup when doing FPP (my iron is to the left of the Wafer)

Let there be light!
In my first FPP projects, I would hold my pieces up to a lamp.  It worked ok, but sometimes it was hard to keep the pieces aligned where I needed them and hold it up to the light.  Buying a lightbox was really a game changer for me.  There are a lot of options available from different manufacturers, but I use the Wafer 1 from Daylight Company, the smallest of their three size offerings.  It's a convenient size to store, and I love that they offer a translucent cutting mat so you can see and cut without moving to a different surface.

You aren't going to get very far without thread.
It should come as no surprise that I use Aurifil thread when I do FPP.  I use the same 50 weight thread that I use for all of my quilt piecing. It is a 2-ply thread, so it's fine enough to not add a lot of bulk in my seams, and it's strong enough to withstand the dreaded removal of paper.

Press it real good.
This is one of the best ways to improve the finish of your sewing projects.  I find that I'm happiest with my results when I use an iron, but I don't use my regular iron.  You want to make sure that you are using a dry iron.  I use a Clover Wedge Iron when I do FPP.  It has a pointy tip which is a feature that is important to me in an iron, and it seems to get suitably hot (and it's a great size when I'm making mini quilts too).  There is no water reservoir, so I don't have to worry about accidentally having water in the iron.  My biggest complaint about the iron is that it takes a while for it to get hot. If I'm working somewhere that an iron isn't available, I will use my Violet Craft Seam Roller.  I think it's the next best option.

Go big.
I try to be as effective and efficient as I can when cutting fabric, so FPP was a bit challenging to get my head around.  FPP is not a method that super low waste.  It's just how it is.  On top of that, unlike a lot of traditional/conventional patterns, many patterns do not tell you what sizes pieces you should cut.  I've realized that I'd rather deal with cutting away more fabric as waste than deal with having pieces that are too small and having to rip the stitches.  Generally, I will cut pieces that are 1" larger than the size that they need to cover to account for seam allowances.  If I have a piece that is rectangular, I won't push it out that far.  It's one of those things that you just have to look at for each piece.  The bottom line is that you should cut to a size that is comfortable for you and adjust as needed.

You rule.
When I FPP, I like to use the Add-A-Quarter Plus ruler by CM Designs.  I love how one side has a beveled edge that allows me to fold my paper back easily and one side with a 1/4" lip for trimming without the need to line up things on a ruler.  Just place it down, butt the lip up to the seam, and trim  using your rotary cutter. You can absolutely use a regular ruler, but I love how much time I can save when I don't have to stop and measure.  They also make a regular Add-A-Quarter ruler without the beveled edge if you don't fold your papers, and there are even rulers for other seam allowance sizes!

It IS worth the paper it's printed on.
There are a lot of different options you can use to print/copy your patterns.  Some people use plain newsprint, vellum, or cheap copy paper.  I like Carol Doak's Foundation Paper by C&T Publishing.  It prints without issues in my laser printer, it tears easily when I need it to do so, I haven't had any problems with line crispness or ink bleed, and it isn't bright white which sometimes gives me a headache if I look at it for too long.  I also like the texture.

Size matters.
When you are printing (if your pattern is a PDF) or if you're making copies of the templates, make sure that they are printing the correct size.  Many patterns will include a size guide on at least one page that you can measure to make sure that things are printing as intended.  If things are not printing as expected, it is often just a simple, easily resolved misconfiguration of your printer settings.  Personally, I also like PDF because it's pretty straightforward if you want to resize the pattern templates.  The last FPP project that I made had blocks that finished at 4" square.  I wanted to make them a little bigger, so I printed them at 125% so they would finish at 5" square.

Write it down.
FPP can be a bit of a challenge to wrap your brain around when you first get started.  You sew on the printed side of the paper, so you sewing everything as a mirror image of how the finished block will appear.  Some designers may shade areas of the pattern so you have an idea of what color to put where, but that's not as common in my experience.  For that reason, I take the low tech approach and grab a pencil and write which fabrics I want in each section (on the printed side of the paper).

Embrace it or don't.
Maybe you will love the process of FPP or maybe you won't. You know what?  It's ok either way!  As I wrote at the beginning, it's just a means to an end for me.  I am glad that I know how to FPP, and I feel confident that I can successfully make something using that method if I felt inclined to do so.  Will it ever be my preferred method?  I doubt it, but things have been known to change.  I guess we shall just have to wait and see.

We've come to the end. I've basically said all I have to say on the subject right now, so let's all go forth and make.

Friday, June 15, 2018

Down the rabbit hole (aka the story of how I got hooked on Aurifil)

I thought I'd take a few minutes to tell you the story of my journey with Aurifil and why it is my go-to thread.

My first Aurifil purchase was a large spool of 50wt thread in color 2600 (Dove) at a local sewing & quilt show back in late February/early March 2013.  I had seen the recognizable orange spool in some local shops, but I had never tried it.  I figured that it was worth a shot, so I purchased the color that I most frequently use for piecing and the rest is history.

Look!  There it is in the pile of things that I bought at Sew Expo on March 3, 2013.

Needless to say, I was totally hooked.  I followed up shortly thereafter with the large thread box from Tula Pink's first collection for Aurifil.  From piecing and quilting to making bags, I used 50wt almost exclusively until June 2014 when I bought my first spool of 40wt Aurifil.

Today, I still actively use both 40 and 50 weight.  I do all of my quilt piecing with the 50wt (including foundation piecing and a little bit of english paper piecing that I've attempted) because it's the great combination of being fine enough so that it isn't bulky in the seams, it blends well into the fabric, and it doesn't generate a lot of lint.  I prefer using 40 weight (on the green spools) for quilting, attaching binding, and making bags.  40 weight thread is thicker than 50, so the stitches become a bit more visible.  The slightly heavier thread also adds a bit of extra durability which I love, especially for binding.  If you are reading this and wondering whether you can you use 50wt for all of those tasks, the answer is yes, absolutely!  

So, why do I choose Aurifil?  
  1. It's really great thread.  The long staple Egyptian cotton used to create most of Aurifil's products is amazing.  Unless you are talking about nice bed linens, I don't think Egyptian cotton is generally part of a conversation.  For Aurifil, it is.  Starting with high quality raw materials, their threads are refined through an extensive process that results in amazing consistency and quality.
  2. I am a big fan of the wide range of colors offered.  With 270 colors (!!!!) available in multiple weights and spool sizes, it's exceedingly rare for me not to be able to find an excellent color match for my projects. As of today, there is no true neon pink. ;)
  3. Aurifil offers a variety of different weights to choose from.  From the heaviest 12wt thread to fine 80wt thread and floss, I know that I can find what I need for my projects.
  4. Multiple sizes of spools are available in the most weights.  I buy some small spools when I need a color that I am less likely to use regularly, and I prefer the large spools for my favorite go-to colors or when I have a medium to large project.   
  5. I've used Aurifil threads in a variety of sewing machines with amazing success.  From a small Singer Featherweight to an inexpensive Brother and my current 7 Series Bernina (with a bunch of Pfaffs of varying ages, multiple Baby Lock machines, and a few assorted other brands and models over the years), I've seen incredible consistency with the thread's performance.  
  6. As I mentioned earlier, I love how the 50wt is fine enough so that it doesn't create a lot of bulk in the seams so my seam allowance stays accurate.
  7. It's low lint.  It's cotton thread, so there will be some lint, but that is easily manageable if you brush out your bobbin area as recommended. I find that most of my lint is often generated from the fabric itself rather than the thread.
  8. My cats really enjoy playing with the empty spools (PSA - string/thread can be incredibly dangerous to a cat if ingested, so please use appropriate caution)! 

Well, there you go.  Now you know the story, and you hopefully understand some of the reasons for why I rely on Aurifil for my quilting and sewing projects.  My name is Leslie, and I'm proud to be a 2018 Aurifil Artisan.  p.s.  There's a wealth of information available on Aurifil's website - aurifil.com.

Friday, June 8, 2018

I'm an Aurifil Artisan!

The most amazing thing happened recently - I applied to become an Aurifil Artisan for 2018, and I was selected.  The Aurifil Artisans are a group of men and women from around the world that use Aurifil in a variety of disciplines.  From hand piecing and machine embroidery to garments and quilts, we are bound by our love of thread and our passion to create.

If you've followed my blog or Instagram account, you have surely noticed that I am a huge fan of Aurifil thread.  I first found Aurifil during a class at a local shop back in 2013, and I've been hooked ever since.  With 270 amazing colors to choose from, what is there really not to like?

If you're seeing this because you found my page because of Aurifil, I'd like to take the opportunity to welcome you to my itty bitty corner of the blogosphere!  I tend to post here more sporadically, but I post on my Instagram page regularly.  It's mostly sewing pics with the occasional pet photo thrown in.  

I like to think of myself as a quilter, bag maker, and a maker of whatever suits my fancy at the time.  For the most part, I use the 50 weight 100% cotton thread for piecing quilts, and I use the 40 weight 100% cotton thread when I make bags or for the limited amount of quilting that I do (mostly quilting on the bags to be honest).  When I'm not sewing, I am usually still sewing (in my head) because I also work as a freelance technical editor!  

I am looking forward to having the opportunity to play with other offerings from the company (especially their monofilament) and being able to share those experiences with you over the next year.

Sunday, April 15, 2018

Book Review - Child's Play Quilts by Stacey Day

Welcome to my stop on the book tour for Stacey Day's Child's Play Quilts book.

Stacey's book is a whole lot of fun.  Divided into appliqué and pieced patterns, Child's Play Quilts features quilts to delight kids of all ages.  For my project, I selected Swish. While I don't know what caught eye first, the pink and purple fabrics or the design, I just knew that I needed to make it.

Swish. Photo courtesy of C&T Publishing
One thing that I really like about the book is that many of the quilts can be scaled to a larger size without a lot of difficulty.  So, that's exactly what I did.  With a couple of quick calculations, I changed the finished block size up to 6" which bumped up the quilt from kid size to 66" x 78" - a perfect for me to use as a lap size quilt!

Swish in Add It Up fabrics by Cotton + Steel
I'll be the first to admit that I am not much of a scrappy quilter, so I selected 4 fabrics for my project.  Technically, they are 4 colors of the same print, but I did say that I'm not a scrappy quilter, didn't I?  Anyway, I love how it turned out.  It has a very 80s/retro vibe which is really quite a departure from how the quilt appears in the book, but that's part of the fun of making quilts, right?

Pantograph quilted by Teresa Silva of Quilting is my Bliss
In addition to the patterns, there are some really great tips on a variety of subjects, including organizing/managing your stash (a favorite hobby of mine).

Anyway, I'm bet you want to know where you can snag a copy of your own Child's Play Quilts book!  You can order a signed copy of the book through Stacey's Etsy shop or an un-signed copy through Amazon.com and C&T Publishing.


Stacey is giving away a copy of her book to 2 lucky people (one winner via her blog and one via Instagram).  To enter into the drawing to win your own copy of Child's Play Quilts, follow these three easy steps!  The winner will be drawn on April 21st.

1. Read my post here on my blog - you're here, so you've got step one done!
2. Follow Stacey Day on her blog at staceyinstitches.com
3. Comment on Stacey's blog post

I'd like to thank you for joining me today on the Child's Play Quilts blog tour!  Be sure to check out all of projects that the participants made for the tour.  There are some very cool quilts!  

I would also like to say congrats to Stacey Day on the publication of her first book.  You go, girl!

Here's the complete tour schedule:
Stacey Day @staceyinstitches April 9th
Brett Lewis @naturalbornquilter April 9th
Cheryl Brickey @MeadowMistDesigns April 9th
Karen Foster@CapitolaQuilter April 10th
Cathy Mackay @cathysmithmackay April 10th
Fiona Kelly @tangledblossom April 11th
Jackie White @jackiesartquilts April 11th
Jean Jones @sew_catstudio April 12th
Reece Montgomery @reecemontgomery April 12th
Carl Hentsch @3dogdesignco April 13th
Brooke Sellmann @sillymamaquilts April 13th
Kaitlyn Howell @knotandthread April 14th
Amy Gunson @badskirt April 14th
Kelly Bowser @kelbysews April 15th
Karis Hess @themodernsewist April 15th
Sara Lawson @sewsweetness April 16th
Leslie Meltzer @lelliebunny April 16th
Pamela Morgan @sweetlittlestitches April 16th
Amy Garro @13spools April 17th
Stephanie Perrins @stitchandbobbin April 17th
Chelsea @Pinkdoorfabrics April 18th
Michelle Wilke @ml_wilkie April 18th
Tiffany Sepulveda @sewtiffany April 19th
Rachael Riechmann @sewilearned April 19th
Pamela Lincoln @mamaspark59 April 20th
Kate Maryon @katydidklm April 20th

Wednesday, February 14, 2018

Wayfinder Quilt with revised flying geese construction

NOTE:  I made the Wayfinder Kit (pattern by Stacey Day and Tula Pink for Free Spirit / Coats), I decided to use a revised method for creating the flying geese. I respect the copyright on the pattern and the work of the designer, so I am solely providing you with the measurements and the resulting change to the yardage needed to complete the project.  I take no responsibility for any errors in cutting or with the accuracy of individual work. These methods are oversized to allow for trimming down to their final desired size.

I would highly recommend using a Bloc Loc Flying Geese ruler for this project.  It saved me hours of time in trimming the geese to size using my regular ruler.


For 4 at a time no waste flying geese (used for all w/ Natural sky and non-directional prints w/ Manatee sky):
  • Cut print square at 5.75” 
  • Cut 4 solid squares at 3.25”


For 1 at a time stitch and flip flying geese, aka rectangle and 2 squares (used for all directional prints w/ Manatee sky):
  • Cut print rectangle at 2.75” x 4.75” 
  • Cut 2 solid squares at 2.75” x 2.75”

Following these revised methods requires additional fabric:
  • Natural sky/background geese*:  increase yardage by .333 yd minimum (.5 yd suggested)
  • Manatee sky/background geese:  increase yardage by 1 yd minimum (1.25 yd suggested)
  • Bear Hug in Star Light (pink):  increase yardage by .333 yd minimum OR 1 FQ (.5 yd suggested)

* I decided to create the single flying geese around the center star with solid background rather than the Arrowheads print, so my calculations do reflect that change.